1. History

• Mark 1 to Mark 2
• Introduction of the 16v
• Yuppies and Advertising
• 1987 Revisions
• 1990 Revisions - Big Bumpers and More!
• High Performance Models - G60, Rallye, Limited
• Model Summary

2. Summary

3. Buying

• 8v vs 16v
• Alternatives
• Buyers Guide
• Common Faults
• Popular Modifications

4. Driving

5. Further Reading

• Articles
• Original Brochures
• Forum Groups
• Owners Clubs
• The Good Guys
• Acknowledgements

1. History

Mark 1 to Mark 2

The Mk1 Golf itself is worthy of a mention for being Volkswagen's long-awaited replacement for the Beetle. Previous models such as the Type 3 and Type 4, as well as the NSU-developed K70 had shown slow sales and with poor finances and sales in terminal decline, a solution was found with the aquistion of Auto Union - which evolved into what we know as Audi these days. Their expertise in water-cooled engines combined with better knowhow of front-wheel drive, which offered weight saving and more interior space in a small car, combined with Giugiaro's famous design, launched VW's new 'people's car'.

The legend of the VW engineers who worked around Herbert Schuster to create the "Sport Golf", later badged the GTi on it’s launch in 1976 is widely known, and overnight this was credited with creating the hot hatch genre (neatly overlooking the Mini Cooper which did so years previously and possibly even the Vauxhall Chevette HS). The Mk1 GTi had gained a 1.8 engine late in 1982 and by this time VW had already begun work on the Golf Mk2, with running prototypes in action by 1981. Although the Mk1 design was by Giugiaro, the Mk2 was based on an in-house design which sought to retain the visual identities created by its predecessor, these including a broad c-pillar and in the case of the GTi, numerous smaller features such as the Golf ball gear knob, red-trimmed front grille, twin exhaust pipes and so on.

Part of the engineers brief was to eliminate shortcomings in the previous model in order to retain brand loyalty. So in order to maintain market share, the wheelbase was increased 7cm, the overall length grew by 17cm and the car became 5cm wider, becoming 100kg heavier in the process. To the critics, this marked the beginnings of the bigger and heavier GTi’s which reached the heights of uselessness with the 2.0 N/A Mk4 - but the Mk2 had a 19% better drag co-efficient and using the same 1.8 8v engine, had a fractionally higher top speed but 0-60 acceleration now took over 8 seconds. However, in real world terms the car was more practical with more luggage space and importantly, a blown plastic fuel tank which increased capacity by 15L and gave the car exceptional range for its time.

As mentioned, running prototypes were in action as early as 1981 and in the two years that preceded the launch, the MK2 was said to have covered an incredible four million test track miles, many months of which were spent testing how the design performed under extremes of temperature in the Arctic and the Tropics. A benefit of this work, for example, was a much improved heating system which responded more quickly to changes in settings, and was less dependent on road speed. At the launch of the new car, Volkswagen claimed the development had involved an investment of almost £500 million. The excellence of the build quality of the later MK1 Golf’s had been a major factor in their success. Volkswagen gave this particular consideration special attention and devised what was at the time the world’s most advanced robotic manufacturing process to ensure consistent and exacting standards throughout the range. Without doubt the new body shell lacked the crispness and some would say the impact of the old car. There were suggestions at the time that the car had gone soft, and that the GTI would soon be overtaken by the more visually arresting competition. However sales in the years ahead would soon dispel this notion – the car had become even more understated, even more ‘Teutonic’. The new GTI was launched in the UK in March 1984; it’s ‘less compromised proportions and more aggressive body extensions winning it a huge following’ (What Car Magazine). Low speed flexibility had been refined and the all round disc braking system was a great improvement on the much maligned disc-drum system employed on the MK1.

Introduction of the 16v

The Mk2 had by this point made its mark not just by size or reputation, but by intelligent redesign, increased driveability, improved suspension, better brakes and by doing all of this, resolved the old cars limitations.  The Mk 2 was bigger, more refined and more modern-looking, in fact nicely-kept Mk 2s still look very smart today. The 8v GTi continued to use the same EA 827 engine as found in the Mk 1 and had sports seats, alloys and wheel-arch extensions as well as the range-wide revisions to suspension, brakes, heating/ventilation and cabin. A year later, a five-door version was launched, and both this and the three-door gained twin exhaust pipes and bodyside mouldings, although alloys went back on the options list. Most buyers paid the price to upgrade from the standard steel wheels, usually going for the multi-spoke BBS items.

However, worldwide sales showed a slight decrease, while sales in the UK were broadly the same as with the old car. Whether this worried VW is not known, but this changed in 1986 with the introduction of the GTi 16v and some award-winning advertisements. The GTi 16v brought a twin overhead camshaft to the tried and tested 827 bottom end, upped performance from 118bhp to 139bhp, and with the aid of a 1000 extra rpm and a longer 5th gear increased top speed from 119mph to 129mph. Externally the differences were typically subtle, the 16v sits 1cm lower on revised suspension with increased front and rear spring rates, and after 1989 it gained larger 256mm brakes to cope with the increased performance as well as new brake cooling ducts. Styling cues were tiny 16v badges front and rear, and on the glove box - as well as a more fashionable bee-sting aerial. Other inclusions were green-tinted glass and central locking. These were added to the standard GTi spec, which were twin headlamps, a rear tailgate spoiler, twin pipe exhaust, manual sliding sunroof, a rev counter, sports seats and the MFA trip computer.

The 16v was intended to not only provide the perfect foil for the new aspirant to the hot hatch throne, the Peugeot 205 GTi (which now came in 1.9 litre form providing a staggering 130bhp in a much lighter car, was lauded for its brilliantly crisp handling, and was at one point road-tested against a Lotus Esprit in a trans-European blast and was cited as the preferred cars by the testers), but the aim of the designers and engineers was to produce more power and improve fuel consumption. They succeeded on both counts, increasing power by 24% and upping torque by 18%. The drawback - of course, as the debate rages to this day - is that real-world driveability decreased compared to the 8-valve model and a considerable price difference became apparent. In 1990, a 16v GTi cost £12000, a considerable premium on similar models. The 16v displays a characteristic common to all multi valve/twin cam engines, where increased power arrives late in the rev range. Peak torque is developed at 4500rpm, where this arrives a lot earlier at 3000rpm in the 8v, again a big debating point amongst owners.

What this translates as, in real world driving terms is that the 16v allows for blistering progress on the open road and in point to point bursts, but in cut-and-thrust urban driving or on backroad blasts, the 8v shines. A myth that needs busting, however, is that the 8v does not develop more torque lower in the rev range. This is not the case, at no point does the 8v generate more torque - but it certainly feels like it does. The difference is hard to explain and rather than getting bogged down in discussion, the only way to tell the cars apart is to actually drive both. The bigger picture is that what Volkswagen had managed to do in one fell swoop was cater for the performance enthusiast with one model and with the other model provide a fast tractable car that was as much at home in the town centre as it was on the open road. And what they also managed to do was reposition the car mid-way through its life-cycle.

Yuppies and Advertising

Another point to make in its success story is the English economic boom of the late 1980s, when increased affluence brought a desire for fast German cars. The waiting list for a Porsche 911 Turbo was growing and the price was a staggering £100,000, so alternatives for junior city bankers were the BMW E30 325i - or, as their car allowance stretched exactly to the list price, the Golf GTi 16v. Following this came the adverts - the very famous "Changes" starring Paula Hamilton, or the famous one where the mechanic inspects the car to find the squeak is caused by the owners sleeping wife's earring. Or the self-depreciating:

 This is the man who bet a million on black when it came up red. This is the man who married a sex kitten just as she turned into a cat. This is the man who moved into the smart money just as the smart money moved out. This is the man who drives a Volkswagen. Everyone must have something in life he can rely on'

1987 Revisions

Minor changes came throughout 1987, these included height-adjustable seatbelts, the removal of the front quarter light windows, and movement forwards of the wing mirrors to improve visibility. Then came a new five-slot grille, revised switchgear, bolder side strips and a different steering wheel.

1990 Revisions - Big Bumpers and more!

In 1990, the most striking facelift took place. Commonly referred to as "big bumper" Golf’s (sometimes even incorrectly as "Campaign" Mk2s, recalling the famous Mk1 Campaign or 'Pirelli edition' - although there had been one UK-only limited edition in 1988), this brought the aforementioned colour coded and integrated big bumpers with revised fog lights and wider rubbing strips. The 16v also gained 15' BBS RAs and power steering as standard

From its introduction, the 16-valve had provoked the first criticisms that the GTi was going soft by gaining power steering (the car being more than a little heavy at low speeds). In 1987 the 8v gained power steering as an option - but not in 1990 -  and from August 1991 it had the same standard spec as the 16-valve.(electric windows, dark glass rear lights, BBS alloys). You may find these cars referred to as "run-out" models. The range continued for another year until the larger, heavier and generally disappointing Golf Mk 3 took over.

The 1990-1992 is considered the most desirable and collectible GTi – but more than that, what they represent most was VW’s then-ability to hold onto a model for longer but to continuously (and subtly) refine it. The production cycles of 9 years for the Mk1 and 8 years for the Mk2 highlighted differences between VW and other manufacturers at the time. Consider that even VW have also changed their position - the Mk3 lasted from 92-97, and the Mk4 Golf was sold from 97-03 - and the Mk5 is already due for replacement.

What VW also showed was that their product management differed to other manufacturers. By making the Golf (as with the Beetle) easy to work on, they could safeguard the cars reliability long after it left their control. And good maintenance of a well-designed and assembled car would ensure its longlivity - which can be seen by the sheer amount of Mk2s and Jetta’s still on Irish roads. And of course, this longlivity would then translate into customer satisfaction and brand loyalty. This contrasted starkly with Fords well publicised four year life cycle for their Cortina - which made it an excellent fleet car choice (you can see where this is going, right... Mondeo, anyone?).

High Performance Models - G60, Rallye, Limited

Late in the Mk2s life, more high performance models were introduced, beginning with the LHD only G60, which used the 8v engine and a G-Lader supercharger. This then brought along the Golf Rallye, a 4wd G60 with flared arches. Although the name suggests it was a homologation car, this was only partially the case. Supercharging was no longer viable in rallying due to rule changes and VAG Group was concentrating on the Audi Quattro. A little known fact is that VW won a Group A championship with the Golf in 1986 and ultimately, 5000 Rallye Golfs were produced.

Then there was the ultra-rare G60 Limited, of which only 71 were made. It was a similar car to the G60/Rallye, but all were black, all but two or three were four door, and it used the 16v engine with the G-Lader supercharger and the 4wd drive train. These carried an astronomical price tag and were only sold internally to VW management. There are two known examples of this car in Ireland, and these are valued at between €15000 and €20000.

After sales of 12 million Mk1 and Mk2s - 1.1 million of which were GTis, the Mk3 was introduced in 1992. And as we all know, things went downhill from there.

Model Summary

Trim levels follow the progress C - CL - GL - GTD - GTI. We assume that you're not a young farmer and are looking for a cheap hot hatch rather than something to go to the mart in. It's thought that the 1.3L engines don't last as long as their larger counterparts and that the diesels, once reasonably well maintained, can live quite long. The 1.6L 'Driver' has visual GTI features and makes a useful purchase if insurance costs are a concern and the rarely spotted GTD has a turbo-charged and intercooled diesel engine which in terms of torque makes a reasonably useful hatchback. There are still a few 4wd (‘Syncro’) versions running around, although these are thin on the ground even in the UK, and if you wanted you could try and source a Golf Country, basically an adapted Golf CL Syncro, modified by Steyr-Puch in Austria and turned into a prehistoric SUV. Raised 18cm with an engine shield and no locking diffs, it would be more of a curiosity than a capable off-roader.

2. Summary

To summarise from a current buyers point of view, the Mk2 GTi has proven to be an exceptionally durable car and even today, more than keeps up with modern traffic. It is a fantastically easy car to work on, parts are widely available, and the rust-proofed bodies and glued seams generally present little worries where the tin worm is concerned. As one noted octane member observed: "They don't break - they give about three weeks warning that something is about to go." There are plenty of examples on octane.ie, and more than enough combined knowledge available online.

Don’t be fooled though, unless you see a receipt for every moving part in the car there will be some work involved. Best to budget for a decent amount of work to include belts, fluids, a complete service kit, coolant hoses, brake hoses and so on to make it as reliable and enjoyable as it should be.

3. Buying

8v vs 16v

The 8v represents an excellent used buy, replacement engines are available in abundance and from a buyers point of view, you get 99% of the kudos and a 30% or so price drop on the 16v. And if you add hot cams to the mix, there's not a massive performance gap. The 16v is a slightly different beast but will justify its price premium by better fuel consumption - I regularly see 40mpg on mine, and 16v ownership gives you the knowledge that VW didn't make a quicker hot Golf in power-to-weight and performance terms until the introduction of the Mk4 R32. The only way to find out what each is really like is to drive them and appreciate their merits.

Alternatives

You may - or will be - tempted by what is widely considered, and well justified to be the greatest hot hatch of all  time, the Peugeot 205 GTi 1.9. But you will need to ask yourself if you want to be spending more time on the road, or in your shed. You may also be tempted by the Mk1s spiritual successors, the Polo or Lupo GTi's - but only serious petrolheads will admire you for that - and the same goes for the then competitors, if you can find one - the Astra/Kadett GTEs, MG Montego Turbos, Peugeot 309 GTi etc. You could go Japanese with a similar aged car in terms of weight, simplicity and appeal in the AE86 Corolla (popularly referred to as a Twincam) but you gain RWD, and then you lose on susceptibility to rust and a very tarnished image due to hooligan owners. Or, you could remortgage the house, lock the wife in the wardrobe, sell the kids on eBay and go all out in the form of a Lancia Delta Integrale.

For my money, the modern day equivalent, if any, lies in the most manic mainstream hot hatches, which by the time you're finished spending money on your new Mk2, will have seemed better value for money. But don't be fooled, it's not about power output and it's best kept normally aspirated, because by turbo - or supercharging - the point of the small, practical car with the big engine, big brakes, uprated suspension and badge kudos is lost, as power increases serve only to compensate for modern weight gain. And no matter what power increases are boasted about, the basic package of a mainstream small car with decent grunt cannot be beaten. Motoring purists bemoan that their likes may never be seen again, and sometimes they don't appear wrong.

So, yes, of course, Mk2 Golf GTi ownership is a compromise. But a very, very sensible one.

4. Driving

Buyers Guide-

The youngest Mk2's are now 16 years old at least, if the car you're thinking of buying has not had a regular recent service history and maintenance, be prepared to budget for replacing parts as they wear out. Mk2's are very tough resilient cars and will happily motor on for years once you treat them to a regular oil and filter change every 5k or so. Engines are pretty much bomb-proof and a regularly maintained 8v will give you 250k before its time for rebuild (150k for a 16v). Spend as much as you can afford to get the best car you can afford if its just a usable reliable classic that you want. Spend a bit less if you're willing to do the mechanical/restoration work yourself.

In my case (klaus23) I spent £600 on a car which had a sound engine and body, but needed pretty much everything else replaced. By the time the complete suspension and braking systems have been replaced along with their respective bushings, top mounts etc. as well as a replacement gearbox and rear axle, the cost will be around what Mk2s go for at the top end of the scale - except I'll know that the work has been done right, and the parts will be OE, OEM or superior replacements.

Watch out for obvious things when looking at a potential purchase, so you want to know if the thing is kosher. If you're buying in the UK, for the love of God start with a HPI check. After that you're checking for everything you'd normally try and spot, overspay, misaligned panel gaps, rippled bodywork and/or chassis rails and crossmembers. Evidence of structural repair in the boot or inner front wings (check for factory stamps about 2/3 up) will indicate if she's been off into the scenery, along with mismatched paintshades on adjacent panels. There should be a factory sticker on the rear panel, just visible as you peer into the boot.

Check for rust on battery trays (take the battery out – I’ve seen fist-sized holes in them) from leaking batteries, around the windscreen (these rust due to poorly applied windscreen seals around replacement windscreens), under front door aperture rubber seals, and in or around wheel arches, especially if the car's fitted with the plastic arch-trims that were standard on GTi and 'Driver' models, around the fuel filler cap and around the 3rd wiper grommet on the scuttle panel beneath the windscreen, on the bottom of doors (from stonechips) and on 5-door models, just under the lock (from seatbelt buckles catching in the doors). Cast an eye over the back panel, these rust in the seams where the water from the roof runs off behind the light clusters. Get in under the car and check the back axle, it should have little more than surface corrosion. Undo the rubber o-rings on the airbox and have a look at the shell behind, this could hide a nasty surprise if it was hit from the side.

While a panel here or there shouldn't put you off, a lot have been crashed and repaired, so getting a structurally sound car is a priority. Don't be put off because of some non-original paint, it's an old car after all. What you need to check for is that the car has not been in any serious accidents that would either compromise the integrity of the chassis, impair handling (and thus safety) or just look terrible. Minor panel damage (that has been repaired) is not serious, but damage to the chassis rails or the floorpan obviously indicate a shadier past.

Almost all English GTi's should have an aftermarket immobiliser fitted and the installation certificate should accompany the car. This is not an insurance requirement over here but remember that old immoblisers and alarms can start to give trouble, and consideration could be given to their removal if the car is garaged.

Mileage will generally be pretty high (rarely less than 100k) so make sure that the service history ties in with what the odometer says, and check for signs of clocking. They wear their age well, so have a look at the interior, pedals, steering wheel etc and make sure that their condition ties in with the quoted mileage.

Happy? Right, time for some nitty gritty.

Don't be fooled by bodykits, even if they're factory fitted or genuine, they may hide a multitude of horrors. Modifications, while ultimately down to the individual, are best kept sensible as standard cars fetch highest values. While minor changes are easily rectified or in some cases (manually adjustable clutch cable) make perfect sense, don't be tempted by tarted up cars. Try to determine if the big bumpers are definitely genuine, the difference is light and day. You will also need to get used to replacing bumper clips, fog lamps, headlights and alternator belts.

To bargain on the price of the car, look at the hopefully original glass in the car, the condition of the alloys and that the spare wheel, jack and brace are in the boot and in good nick, and if not then beat the price down as these are standard equipment. The same goes for tyres and recent cambelt changes. There's no point in having to change all four tyres the minute you get the car home, and the timing belt will cost €30 if you do it yourself and God-only-knows if you need help with it.

Start looking at the brake hoses, if they are bulging or cracking you'd be better off with some nice Goodridge Stainless steel ones. Check the CV joints and the condition of the pads and discs, again worth upgrading. Make sure the plates around the back discs are in place, these rust and cost €100 new. Don't bother checking the bushes as unless they were replaced recently, they will be tired. Powerflex polyurethane bushes are excellent and longer lasting replacements.

If you're buying in the UK and returning to Ireland, steer clear of coilover suspension setups. These may seem excellent on the A5 cutting across Snowdonia, but will be a different proposition on your local boreen. Standard springs and Bilstein shocks are thought to be a better setup for Irish roads - which usually make short work of any fresh import's suspension.

Tornado Red, VW Black and Alpine White are the most popular colours,and the car looks very well in any of these shades, but the the pigments in the red paints will oxidise and turn pink if not treated to regular polish/wax and shelter from direct sunlight. Oak Green is a much-coveted colour on Mk2's (especially 16v's) but they're rarer than hen's teeth. Interiors are very hard-wearing, if a lttle sombre and dark, with outer bolsters on the front seats are prone to fraying and wear. Most post-90 cars have the coveted 'Rainbow' interior but genuine Recaros from the options list can be sourced (usually cheaper on eBay.de) and these make a cracking upgrade to the car.

Things to lookout for under the bonnet include rattly tappets when cold, blue smoke when you rev the engine(burning oil caused by worn engine internals), blue smoke on start up only (worn valve stem oil seals). Gearbox can crunch when cold while changing from 1st to 2nd gear, caused by worn synchro rings. This is more annoying than fatal and I've known lots of people who just add Slick-50 gear oil treatment with synthetic gear oil and just ignore it for years (each of the half dozen Mk2's I've had - and both Mk3 GTi's I've had - had this crunch and I've never recon'd any of their boxes!

Check the usual stuff, clean clear fluids, no mayonnaise under the oil filler cap, no oil in the water, no brown rusty coolant. Stay away from drilled air-boxes, or use it as a bargaining point. The car should start strongly on the turn from cold, and idle smoothly, dropping in rpm as it gets warm. It should only clatter briefly before warming up. Make sure the fan comes on, check all your electrics and make sure the exhaust isn't blowing.

Test-driving is the same as any other car, make sure it stops in a straight line, tracking, etc. Blue smoke on full throttle (get someone to follow behind) can mean either valve guides or piston rings, so bear this in mind when negotiating. Play in the gearchange is easily remedied by linkage bushings or complete linkage repair kits.

Decision time. There's many out there and a few good ones are coming up for sale in Ireland, so you don't always need to look across the water. There are many potential pitfalls, but buy wisely and you'll soon find yourself grinning ear to ear.

Popular Modifications-

Common Problems-

This is not a definitive listing, but is just some of the stuff I've experienced;

Rattly, worn tappets;
The famous '2nd gear crunch'

Leaking heater matrix

Most of these should have been addressed by VW on recall - look for two valves that were inserted into the heater pipes just forward of the bulkhead. If not, you can do the work yourself.

Wet carpets, caused by perished plastic weather membranes behind door trim panels.

This fix is also widely avaliable on the web, you can DIY it by using polyurethane sheets, some waterproof glue and white spirit to clean the old adhesive off.

Seized rear brake calipers.

This can be addressed by fitting Mk3 callipers which are less prone to seizing or making a very good upgrade to Mk4 callipers which fit upside down without modification.

5. Further Reading

Articles

• Original Brochures

1989 Model: http://www.volkswizard.co.uk/brochures/1989mk2gti16vbrochure.htm
1990 Model: http://www.volkswizard.co.uk/brochures/1990mk2gti16vbrochure.htm

• Forum Groups

Golf GTi  http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/
Club GTi  http://www.clubgti.com/forum/

Ireland:

VAGDrivers.net     http://vagdrivers.net/forums/index.php

• Owners Clubs:

Volkswagen Audi Group Enthusiasts Ireland     http://www.vage.ie/

• The Good Guys

Autowerks, German Swedish French, etc.

5. Acknowledgements

	miles	county	price	image
1991 Volkswagen Golf Mk2	135000 Miles	Cork	€2,500
1991 Volkswagen Golf Mk2	117000 Miles	Monaghan	€3,800
1989 Volkswagen Golf Mk2	170000 Miles	Abroad	£350
1989 Volkswagen Golf Mk2	Unknown Miles	Dublin	€1,500
1991 Volkswagen Golf Mk2	88000 Miles	Monaghan	€3,800
1991 Volkswagen Golf Mk2	278000 Miles	Kildare	€1,150
1990 Volkswagen Golf Mk2	Unknown Miles	Wicklow	€650
1990 Volkswagen Golf Mk2	125000 Miles	Waterford	€1,850
1987 Volkswagen Golf Mk2	Unknown Miles	Dublin	€4,450
1986 Volkswagen Golf Mk2	145000 Miles	Cork	€1,150
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